The former Soviet capital is full of fascinating monuments to "different" political life. One is the Moscow metro, where commoners were king.
Where else is the daily commute lit up by chandeliers? Be sure to check out the gallery at the end of this article for more gorgeous visions of the Moscow Metro.
An average of 6.8 million riders get on the Moscow Metro every day. That is two million more daily riders than the ones crammed into the subway cars in New York City. For those nearly seven million Muscovites and visitors to the Russian capital, a ride in the metro is also a passage through an increasingly distant, though fascinating, Soviet past.
As in all state-sponsored, quasi-religious art, there is more than a seed of propaganda strewn across the gorgeous murals, sculptures, and intricate ceilings of the Moscow Metro. The subway system of the former Soviet capital was explicitly created in the 1930s and 1940s as a paean to the highest ideals of Russia’s Communist revolution.
The twelve mosaics from the 1950s on the ceiling at the Belorusskaya Station celebrate Soviet life in Russia’s neighbor, Belarus.
The Party put 70,000 men to work building Moscow’s subway system. They were split into three groups, each working an eight-hour shift, so that construction never stopped. Over the next two decades, working with the country’s best artisans as well as the finest granite and marble, these metrostroevsky – the Metro builders – created what is still the world’s most beautiful subway system.
Of course, the Communists turned out to be as brutal and corrupt as the elites that they replaced in the revolution. And it needs to be repeated that the propaganda, though it sometimes took beautiful, artistic forms, served to sustain a regime that murdered, tortured, and wrongfully imprisoned millions. Joseph Stalin would not have poured so much money and manpower into subways if that artistry had not reinforced the Party’s dominance of all aspects of life in the USSR.
Sometimes, though, art’s impact is more dogged than the political power of its patrons. Despite the insidious history of the Soviet state, there is still something alluring about the hope that – driven by technology, education, and a reverence for art and human creativity – society can cast aside the tyrannies and stupidities of the past and build something new and better. The beautiful Moscow Metro embodies this enduring hope. The Soviet subway, exactly because it would be the province of common workers, was made to be as grandiose as the palaces of the Tsars.
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Nearly 7 million people ride the Moscow Metro every day. Source: flickr.com
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Many stations are exquisite, including Mayakovskaya which opened in 1938. Source: flickr.com
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A 1:1 scale copy of the Mayakovskaya actually won first-prize at the 1939 World’s Fair held in New York City. Source: flickr.com
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While not all 196 stations are as grandiose as Komsomolskaya (pictured here), the Moscow Metro is something like a massive museum of Soviet-era art. Source: flickr.com
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The Party approved the Moscow subway in 1933, and the first line opened in May 1935. This photo shows the Lenin Library station during the first year the metro was open. Source: flickr.com
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This is what the Dzerzhinski Square platform looked like in 1935. Source: flickr.com
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And here’s the Sokolniki platform in 1935. Note the Party leaders, with Stalin in the center, watching over your daily commute. Source: flickr.com
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Many stations are full of mosaics. The art in the Kievskaya platform celebrates the long (but often contentious) brotherhood of Russia and Ukraine. Source: flickr.com
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The Belorusskaya ceiling mosaics show scenes of idealized Soviet life in Belarus. Source: flickr.com
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Novoslobodskaya station boasts 32 stained glass displays of exceptional quality. This part of the line opened in 1952. Source: flickr.com
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While many Stalin portraits have been removed from the Metro, this mosaic of the Soviet despot still stairs down riders at the Park Kultury stop. Source: flickr.com
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This sculpture at the Shosse Entuziastov stop is called “Flame of Freedom.” Source: flickr.com)
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The “Defenders of Russia” bas-relief graces one end of the beautiful, marble platform at the Smolenskaya stop, which opened in the early 1950s. Source: Tflickr.com
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The Park Pobedy (“Victory Park”) station features this colorful commemoration of the Soviet victory over the Nazis in 1945. Source: flickr.com
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Park Pobedy is also he deepest station in the Moscow Metro. Europe’s longest escalators (740 steps!) lead down, down, down toward the marble-tiled platform. Source: flickr.com
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Elektrozavodskaya, which opened in 1944, is one of the most beautiful stations in the system. Its marble friezes celebrate the lives and labor of Soviet workers. Source: flickr.com
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Slavyansky Bulvar station is a latecomer to the Moscow Metro. It opened in 2008, but arrived with a beauty that lives up to its older counterparts. Source: flickr.com
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Located near the Moscow Botanical Gardens, the Prospekt Mira stop features floral friezes in white marble. Source: flickr.com
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A train pulls up to the platform at Arbatskaya, another jewel of the Moscow Metro. Source: flickr.com
John has been writing for All That Is Interesting since 2014 and now lives in Madrid, Spain, where he writes and consults on international development projects in East Africa.
Savannah Cox holds a Master's in International Affairs from The New School as well as a PhD from the University of California, Berkeley, and now serves as an Assistant Professor at the University of Sheffield. Her work as a writer has also appeared on DNAinfo.
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Schellhase, John. "The Moscow Metro: A Mausoleum Of Revolutionary Ideals." AllThatsInteresting.com, August 12, 2015, https://allthatsinteresting.com/moscow-metro. Accessed December 11, 2024.