Characterized by "dark" fashion, melancholy music, and a tight-knit community, the goth subculture finds beauty in what others might find morbid or depressing.
Although the term “Gothic” has been around for centuries to describe architecture, art, and stories, the term “goth,” as it pertains to the subculture, really started to take off in the 1980s. Then, throughout the 1990s, goth style saw an ever-increasing boom in popularity, thanks in large part to the popular figures of the era who embodied goth to the fullest.
As the early 2000s approached, though, the goth subculture started to fade away — at least, in the mainstream. Of course, goth never truly died. For many enthusiasts, they embraced the fashion and attitude of goth culture well into the 2010s, and it’s even starting to see something of a resurgence in the mid-2020s, proving once again that past is always prologue.
Take a look back at the pinnacle of goth style in our gallery below.
The Rise Of Goth Style In The 1980s And 1990s
The 1980s and 1990s were a pivotal period for the goth subculture, which originated in Britain thanks to the ongoing popularity of punk and the rise of "alternative" fashion. Before long, the allure of goth and its themes of darkness and rebellion captivated a generation seeking refuge from the mainstream — in the United Kingdom, the United States, and elsewhere.
This era saw the rise of iconic figures who shaped the scene. Robert Smith of The Cure, with his melancholic lyrics and signature dark eyeliner, embodied the essence of goth (ironically, Smith himself has rejected the "goth" label), while Siouxsie Sioux of Siouxsie and the Banshees, exuding a powerful feminine energy, further solidified goth's presence in music.
Musicians like Peter Murphy of Bauhaus and Andrew Eldritch of The Sisters of Mercy, with their distinctive styles and brooding personas, added even more depth and complexity to the goth sound.
Wikimedia CommonsSiouxsie Sioux of Siouxsie and the Banshees, pictured in 1980.
But the first mention of the term "gothic rock" surprisingly came amidst the rise of a different band: The Doors. While most people wouldn't associate Jim Morrison with the goth subculture, music critic John Stickney first coined the term "gothic rock" in 1967 when describing Morrison's band:
"The Doors are not pleasant, amusing hippies proffering a grin and a flower; they wield a knife with a cold and terrifying edge. The Doors are closely akin to the national taste for violence, and the power of their music forces each listener to realize what violence is in himself... The Doors met New York for better or for worse at a press conference in the gloomy vaulted wine cellar of the Delmonico hotel, the perfect room to honor the Gothic rock of the Doors."
The label of "gothic rock" was also applied to some post-punk bands that rose to prominence in the late 1970s, including Joy Division and Siouxsie and the Banshees. While the latter would become closely tied to goth style, most today would scoff at anyone suggesting that Joy Division was a "goth band."
According to author Simon Reynolds' Rip It Up and Start Again: Post-Punk 1978-84, the gothic movement may have truly began in 1979, when the band Bauhaus released their famous single "Bela Lugosi's Dead."
"In the beginning, though, 'Gothic' was a neutral adjective for a certain doomy ambience in post-punk music," Reynolds writes. "Quite rapidly, though, it became a critical term of abuse applied to newer bands such as Bauhaus who had emerged in the wake of Joy Division and Siouxsie & The Banshees. Finally, the word was reclaimed as a positive identity, a tribal rallying cry."
That rallying cry echoed throughout the 1980s and into the 1990s, as grunge burst onto the scene. Meanwhile, other artists like Marilyn Manson and Trent Reznor (of Nine Inch Nails) further embraced many elements of goth culture.
What Defines The Goth Subculture, From Aesthetics To Attitude
Wikimedia CommonsTaylor Momsen, once known for playing Cindy Lou Who in 2000's How The Grinch Stole Christmas, is now the lead singer of the band The Pretty Reckless. Her style has been described as "glam goth."
Though it is often misunderstood, goth culture is highly expressive and deep. Aesthetically, black is the dominant color, a symbol of darkness, mystery, and mourning. This manifests itself in certain clothing choices: flowing dresses, Victorian-inspired garments, leather jackets, and band t-shirts.
Makeup is dramatic, with pale foundation, dark eyeliner, and bold lipstick, and cosmetics are often worn by both men and women. Hairstyles range from sleek bobs to elaborate updos and backcombed creations. Silver jewelry, often with occult or religious motifs, completes the look.
At its heart, goth attitude embodies a romantic fascination with the macabre, the melancholic, and the introspective. It challenges mainstream notions of beauty and embraces the darker side of the human experience.
This can be seen in a love for horror literature, gothic rock music, and art that explores themes of death, loss, and the supernatural. It's not about being depressed or morbid, but rather, finding beauty in the shadows.
Overall, goth culture is all about celebrating the unconventional. At its core, it is a community where people can express themselves freely, explore their darker emotions, and connect with like-minded souls.
The Influence Of Gothic Literature On Goth Style
Public DomainMary Shelley's Frankenstein is a classic example of Gothic literature.
As the name would imply, goth culture took numerous cues from popular Gothic literature of the 19th century. Iconic stories like Frankenstein, The Turn of the Screw, Dracula, and the works of Edgar Allan Poe all represent a similar fascination with death and the macabre.
These stories also often center characters who are considered outcasts, villains, or are in some way "othered" by society. These stories are sometimes darkly romantic, and the literary descriptions in these works can suggest a period of change — the rise of the Industrial Revolution creating smoggy skies, contrasted with the elegance of Victorian fashion.
These elements together make up the core of modern goth style. The fact that these stories were written long before goth culture hit the mainstream — and the resurgence of goth culture now — shows its staying power. And for many who are loyal to the community, goth was never "just a phase."
Goth is dead. Long live goth.
After this nostalgic dive into the goth subculture, see our gallery of photos from the height of America's mall culture. Then, see 33 vintage backstage photos of some of history's most famous musicians.
